Friday August 30th, 1872

Friday Aug 30th I saw the Sun rise which was a grand sight, but not as magnificent as at Mont St Bernard, at about 5 in the morning then cast anchor all of us feeling very uncomfortable we were tired and felt sick, but could not be much so, I was worse than when I crossed in going, so was Mrs T and Mr Morgan, Mr Porter stood it well, but poor Mrs M looked worse, whether she was trying to get the colour back into the piece of flannel, I cannot say, but she failed.

It was a fine calm passage, and we arrived at Newhaven about 12 midday, went into the Hotel and had a splendid dinner which suited my inner man exactly; some of our party could not much enjoy it, but really I made up for them. We all felt thankful that we had been spared from all accidents and allowed to return in health and happiness to our own British soil again, after spending a most pleasant trip which every married couple ought to have, after working for 21 years (or before if they can afford it).

We arrived at London soon after 3 took a cab 3/6 to Paddington at about 10 minutes to 5 left for Stroud, arrived here 8-27, found all well, everything as we could wish, and all glad to see us return. A pleasanter or more lovely and happy trip, four persons could never have had, all things in our favour.

Thursday August 29th, 1872

Thursday Aug 29th after breakfast started at 9 in a carriage to Pere la Chaise cemetery 150 acres in extent, saw four funerals, many of the friends in colored clothes, from here to the Pantheom the dome is 450 feet high, paid ½ franc to go into the vaults saw some tombs of noted men, such as Voltaire, Rousseau, and others, there is a most wonderful echo, by striking your hand against the flap of your coat it sounds as loud as the report of a cannon.

From there to Notre Dame, passing lots of buildings in ruins; but there are thousands of men at work repairing them, especially the shops and houses destroyed by the Communists, then on to the Tomb of Napoleon 1st which is superb, it is a marble polished tomb, about 9 feet high, in a pit most beautifully made, all of marble about 16 feet deep, with lots of flags taken at different battles by his soldiers. 

It is a most extensive display of polished marble, in the other parts of the building are the tombs of many of the Bonaparte family, the top of the Dome outside is beautifully gilded the whole of it is a most gorgous place all visitors to Paris should go and see it, the building joins the Hotel de Invalides (or home for old soldiers like Chelsea it is in a nice open part of the City of Paris with large gardens attached).

From here to a café, to have some refreshment, Mrs M preferring a empty stomach, and to walk about certainly she would not have so much to carry, Mr P, Mr M, Mrs T and myself thought there was no fear of our overloading our stomachs and we being of such industrious habits did not mind carrying the burden. After we went to the Tullieres one of the finest buildings in Paris in 1848 and now in ruins, then to the Louvere, all adjoining, spent two hours here, looking at the most beautiful paintings in the World.

Then to the Palais Royal, here is some splendid shops, we made some purchases, then on to the market, bought a basket of fine black grapes 6 ¾ lbs for 4 franc’s basket into it, the woman asked me 7 franc’s and I offered 3 ½ in my broken French at last I rose to 4 and had them, with a promise to send the empty back but I forgot the address, they generally ask the English peoples nearly double the right price.

Our visit to Paris was only a flying one more about the City when I come again, went to Hotel had dinner, about 4 Oclock had some beef steaks very good, settled up and off to the Train which left Paris at 20 past 6 for Dieppe, arriving there at ½ past 10, went on board the steamer, had a very cold night; I stopped on deck, the other friends went to the cabins.

Wednesday August 28th, 1872

Wednesday Aug 28th had a good breakfast then to St Cloud by Omnibus the Palace in 1849 I saw it in all its grandeur, now all in ruins, a strange difference, the gardens are fine and extensive, from here to Versaillies by railway, taking our seats at the top of the carriage had a fine view of the country as we went along. Went to a Café at Versaillies had some refreshments (made the waiter laugh with my broken French) then to the Palace, saw the paintings in the rooms with polished floors and the ceillings are as finely painted as the pictures, which are mostly battle scenes.

Then into the gardens, the Orange trees in blossom, the beautiful avenues, the flowers &c, water with gold and silver fish, a splendid lake opposite the flight of steps to the Palace, all in the gardens are most beautiful, also the sheet of water in another part of the gardens where the grand fountains play only once a year (I saw them playing in May 1849 when Napoleon the 3rd was only President of the French Republic, he was there, and thousands of people on that day to see the waters play, which was magnificent (but not equal to the fountains now at Sydenham).

We were very much amused with the fish, in this water, someone had thrown the ends of four rolls into the water and there was from 5 to 8 fish about 4 to 5lbs each fighting and trying to catch and eat the ends of the rolls which was too big for their mouths, they made as much noise in the water as a large dog.

The gardens are most extensive and beautifully laid out, you could spend two or three days in them and one or two days in the Palace, and then not see all.

Back by train to Paris, went to the Hotel to Table de Hote at 5 had good dinner, a bottle of wine for every two, my two friends being teetotalers I had the chance of a double quantity of wine, but found my own enough. The room was not as large nor the dinner so good as at Geneva, yet it was very well. After dinner walked about Paris, went to an open air Concert in the Champs Elysee, more than 2 thousand people there, ½ franc entrance, but as soon as we were seated and Mr P and I ordered some grog they charged us 5 franc’s each (quite a sell). Left here for our lodgings, but could not find them untill after 11 oclock at night, went to bed tired.

Tuesday August 27th, 1872

Tuesday Aug 27th on we went to Dijon had some refreshments, in half an hour on again, stopping twice between here and Paris, at 4 in the afternoon we arrived in the City, (took cab 6 /-) we were 22 ½ hours coming from Geneva to Paris 375 miles, drove to Hotel London & New York full; from here to St Peterborough Rue de Can-martin, the landlady went out and got us two bedrooms with a sitting room at a private house a few doors above. We had our meals at the Hotel, had a dinner, after met Mr Porter of Thornbury, walk to Champs Elysee up to the Triumphant Arch, back to bed.

Monday August 26th, 1872

Monday Aug 26th went and saw the six Eagles in the cages, the emblem of the City, close by are the Publick Slaughter Houses, washing baths, swimming baths, the Hydraulic Machine which supplies the publick fountains and a great many houses with river water.

In the vicinity of Geneva, the banks of the Lake are studded with handsome villas, especially Villa Rothschild at Pregny, Adolf Rothschild lives at this Chateau, a magnificent place, a fine view of Mont Blanc from the pavilion in the Park – admission on Thursdays and Sundays free by getting a card from one of the Hotels at Geneva. 

The Lake of Geneva is a most beautiful sheet of water, it is in the shape of a half moon, 45 miles in length 8 ½ miles wide 500 feet deep near Chillon Castle, and 650 feet deep near Meillerie, and 300 at Geneva, the area is 260 square miles of water, (being 34 miles more than lake Constance,) there are six or eight steamers on the Lake that sail from here to Vevay and other towns on the lake banks, fares to Vevay first cabin 6 ½ franc’s second cabin 2 ½ franc’s about 4 ¼ hours sail.

We had dinner at ½ past 12 settled our bill and prepared for a start, went to the Station, got into a railway carriage at ½ past 5 the time for the train to leave but did not leave until ½ past 6. The crowds of people returning from the Festival was fearful, the train at last started amidst thousands of voices in the train and on the platform, when we had travelled about 10 miles from Geneva, we had the best sight of Mont Blanc that we had at any time, the evening was very fine and clear.

About 12 miles farther we passed through a tunnel called Bellegarde, I should think it is three times as long as Sapperton tunnel, we travelled fast and for many miles, through a mountainous country, passing over the river several times, and for miles along side we stopped at a station for 40 minutes for all the passengers to have their passports signed, and luggage examined. English only exempt. The next Station we stopped at all the refreshment stalls (Buffett or Salle Mangers) were closed, it was about 12 at night.

Sunday August 25th, 1872

Sunday Aug 25th this being their grand musical festival today, only once in 7 years there were 123 brass bands of music, consisting of from 40 to 60 musicians in each band, there was an Orchestra erected in a large open green, the Plain-Palais a disused cemetery, and every band a number so that they went in turns to play before the Committee, and in the afternoon was awarded the prizes, the scene althrough the City was impossible to describe every window had a flag, hundreds of streamers across the streets, music everywhere, (I think there was 10 flags for every one on the day of Thanksgiving in London. Feby 27th 1872 for the recovery of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.) 

The cannons began firing at 5 in the morning, and the whole City from 9 in the morning untill 12 at night was more like a fairy land or a dream, the fireworks at night began at 8 lasted till 11, then one of the bands struck up and played God save the Queen of England in the gardens opposite our hotel, and the whole mass of people joined in, there were many English visitors here, and we all felt very much pleased to hear it so many miles away, from old England the land of my birth. I never heard such a chorus with so many voices so heartily joined together without any preperation, it was grand. 

Geneva has a population of 47,581 (20,695 Roman Catholic’s) is the richest town and smallest Canton (except Zug) in Switzerland, it is 15 miles long and as many wide, the entire Canton has a population of 94,116 of whom 30,000 are aliens. The town is situated at the south extremity of the Lake, at the point where the blue waters of the Rhone emerge with the swiftness of an arrow. 

The Rhone divides the town into two parts; on the right is the smallest, chiefly inhabited by the industrious class, on the north side are squares of handsome houses, many ten stories high, the scene from the Lake presents a very imposing appearance the banks of the Rhone being flanked with broad quays and fine substantial buildings, the streets are mostly narrow, steep, and irregular, the two halves of the City are connected by means of six bridges, the highest of these and the most handsome is Pont du Mont Blanc, completed in 1862, leads from the Railway Station through a broad street Rue du Mont Blanc over the bridge passing our Hotel de Metropole and on to the end of the Jardin Anglais.

The English Church is situated in Rue de Mont Blanc, and when the Clergyman the Rev Dowling (that has officiated here for 14 years) got to the Church this morning, the gates, doors, and all were locked against him, by order of the Committee, the Rev Gentleman with his congregation went to our Hotel, and there held a service, in the general sitting room. The Bishop of London has since settled the affair and the Rev Mr Dowling uses the Church again.

Pont des Bergues the next bridge is joined to Rousseau’s island, united to the bridge by a suspension bridge in the centre of the island is a bronze statue of Rousseau (he was born at Grand rue 40 in 1712 and died in 1778 at Paris) and a little café surrounded with trees and seats, it is a very pleasant place, I much enjoyed a cigar and a bottle of wine there, you have a fine view of the Lake, you have one of the finest views of Mont Blanc group (the highest of which is 15,781 feet high and always covered with snow) from the Quai du Mont Blanc, the corner house is the Hotel de Russia, a noble Hotel, expensive and supported by the Imperial family of Russia.

Trees are planted along the quay as far as Jete or pier, with seats, you have a fine view of the City, also of the Alps. In the beautiful gardens (Jardin Anglais) opposite our Hotel is a bronze group of Helvetia and Geneva, by Dorer, on a pedestal, commemorating the Union of Geneva with the confederation in 1814, also a beautiful fountain.

On an eminence to the south-east at some distance is the new Russian Church, with its 5 Glittering gilded domes, erected by contributions from the Imperial and other Russian families, it is a most imposing sight, we went inside, and it won’t hold more than 50 persons, but most gorgous, the precious stones, gold and silver candlesticks, the wood all polished Cedar, you want a day to inspect it, when the sun shines in at the windows you can scarcely look at any of it, we all said it was the most exquisite place we ever saw, it must have cost many thousands of pounds, the inside alone.

We went inside the Hotel de Ville (where the Alabama question was settled for us English to pay to America three millions and nearly a quarter pounds sterling for damage done by the Alabama, Florida, and Shenandoah three ships that left our ports) it is a massive building, in the interior are inclined planes instead of stairs.

The Cathedral completed in 1024 by the Emperor Conrad the second, to west of thebuilding is the house that Calvin occupied from 1536 to 1564 (he was born 1509 at Noyon in Picardy,) untill his death; he was interred in the Cemetary of Plain-Palais now a disused cemetery, but the spot cannot be recognised as the great reformer expressly forbade that any monument should be erected over his remains.

The Arsenal opposite Hotel de Ville contains ancient and modern armour also the ladder used by the Savoyards in their unsuccessful enterprise to obtain possession of Geneva Dec 11th 1602, near is the Botanic Gardens established in 1816, The Anthenee was erected by the wife of the philhellenist Eynard and presented to the Society des Beaux-Arts, it contains lecture rooms, a library of works on the history of art.

The Theatre erected in 1782 is generally closed during the summer. Mrs T and I went in, 1 franc each to hear the singing for prizes, it was very full. We also went to the Musee Rath (Mr and Mrs Morgan with us now) founded by the Russian General Rath a native of Geneva, and presented to the City by his sisters, the sculpture and paintings were very good, many by Rubens and other noted painters.

We got back to our Hotel, had a wash, at 5 went to the Table de Hote to dinner; when we were all seated there was more than 250 ladies and gentlemen from all nations, we had nine courses consisting of soup, fowl, fish, flesh &c. with fruit after, you had what wine you liked, but that was paid for extra, at 7 we left the room, had a rest, at ½ past 7 went out again, walked about the City that was illuminated with gas and millions of Chinese lanthorns, from one end of the City to the other. Also all the steamers and boats on the Lake was light up, bands of music in every street, the City at night was one moving mass, and the houses many of them ten stories high, with flags flying and light up with gas or lamps, your mind was carried away, you could hardly fancy it real.

The cannons began firing at 7 and the fireworks let off on Rousseau’s island, the water gave it such a nice effect, altho so many thousands of people, you could pass through with very little trouble (not like we found it in London going down Ludgate Hill at ½ past 9 at night Feb 27th 1872 when some of our company nearly fainted from the crush and many persons were much injured at the same time). 

Mr M left us at about 10 and went to the Hotel tired, Mrs M and Mrs T and myself started off to see what we could, thinking it very possible we may never have the chance again. 

We went to café had some coffee and cognac, (very good) and roll with nice butter, rested, then off to our Hotel about ½ past 11 at night.

Saturday August 24th, 1872

Saturday Aug 24th started from here at 9 got to Vevay, left at 20 past 11 for Lausanne, we staid here two hours, this is the Capital of the Canton de Vaud, the population is 26,520, with 14 or 15 good Hotels, a great deal of building now in progress, it is situated on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, the Cathedral on one side, and its Castle on the other, it is connected by a handsome bridge, the Grand Pont erected 1839-1844, many of the houses are very fine, the Cathedral erected  1235-1275 and consecrated by Gregory 10th. We walked up the wooden steps (covered with a rough covering of wood) from the street, to get to it, from here is a most beautiful view of the City, Lake, and neighbourhood the streets are very steep and irregular. 

In 1536 a disputation took place in this Church in which Calvin, Farel and Viret, participated, and resulted in a separation of the Canton de Vaud from the Romish Church, and the suppression of the supremacy of Savoy, the interior of this protestant Church is 350 long, 151 wide, height of Tower 162 feet, The Blind Asylum (Asyle des Aveugles) is ½ mile from the town, was founded by Mr Haldimand, a wealthy and benevolent Englishman, he died in 1862.

The buildings and fountains near the market place are very handsome, there are many institutions and places of note here, but our stay was too short to gather any more information, we left here for Geneva at 2 Oclock, arriving at 4 went to Hotel de Metropole, this Hotel has 150 rooms with two beds in each, and 50 rooms, with four beds in each; it is one of the largest in the City and belongs to a Company. More than fifty persons were refused accommodation, we had Cooks tickets and had four very nice beds, and every attention, the gardens and Lake facing it, at the Table de Hote more than 200 Ladies and Gentlemen dined together this night at 5 Oclock, first class dinner. 

The room was painted gold and white, from 12 to 14 feet high, with 14 mirrors reaching from ceiling to floor, (there were over 25,000 persons came to Geneva this day by rail), after dinner we walked about the City, at 10 went in to Bed. 

Friday August 23rd, 1872

Friday Aug 23rd, staid here had dinner at 12, and thought of going by Steamer to Laussane, but disappointed, the storms with a little thunder and lightening till after 2, and the clouds so thick we cannot see the Lake, all day stormy, so that we had only a walk for about a mile from the Hotel, then caught in a storm, it did not last long but is very heavy. Got back, had our bill and settled, very moderate the Landlord was very much obliged, and we were all very much pleased, it began raining again, and kept on all night.

Travellers on the Continent should always have their bills the night before they leave, for many of the Hotel keepers or the managers take advantage of the English, and if the bill is left until the last minute you have no time to examine it, they say we have plenty of money in England and can pay, I cannot find it so (can you).

Thursday August 22nd, 1872

Thursday Aug 22 staid at Hotel, had dinner at one, it rained all Wednesday night and untill 9 this morning, at 2 went to Vevay, walked about the town looking in the shop windows, making some few purchases, the ladies rather slow in passing the Milliners shops, which were very beautifully adorned with mantles, bonnets &c.

A walk on the Quay, then back to Hotel, the Lizards here on the roads are innumerable, they run along the walls and hedges so fast and on road they are quite amusing to watch them, very few birds flying about, we have not seen a rabbit, hare, fox, or Chamois, got back to the Hotel at ¼ past 7, had tea, then rested until bed time, the rain began again and lasted all night, and till ½ past 10 next morning.

Wednesday August 21st, 1872

Wednesday, Aug 21st Hotel Belle Vue, this is the time for a visit to Switzerland, staid at the Hotel, untill after dinner, went into the garden and vineyards attached, and caught butterflies after had a walk through the village of Chardonne-sur-Vevay about 1 mile, then walked up the road about two miles, this road is for 50 miles, all the way to Bern, the only protection is blocks of granite, about as high out of the ground as a mile stone, but square with smooth sides and the top round, which forms stools for the people to rest on. The vines, apple, pear and walnut trees especially are loaded with abundance of fruit, all up this road as far as we went the view from here is very pretty, and the evening very pleasant, back to Hotel for the night. 

Tuesday August 20th, 1872

At a ¼ past eight Tuesday Aug 20th we four started and walked about a mile down the worst part of the Mountain, then the Ladies mounted their Mules looking remarkably well and in first class spirits, Mr M and Myself skipping down the Mountain like young lambs full of life and vigour from the fresh and beautiful air. At the top and the thoughts that the two ladies were ours, (Oh) what unhappy beings must Bachelors be; no one to sooth their sorrows, to comfort them or take them such a nice out as this.

We arrived at Cantine de Proz in good time, put the Mules to the carriage and off we started again, passing those dirty villages, arriving at Liddes we changed the mules for the grey Horse and Mule, we started again, the driver was an old hand, and we galloped down the road at such a rate it made the ladies shut their eyes and mouths, and really made me very nervous, the road is so very narrow in places, and we could see the precipices more than when we went up.

The people tie the corn in bundles, put two poles through, put it on the backs of the Mules, and walk behind them, to push and keep it on their backs, as they go up the sides of the Mountains, they gather the hay in the same way in all the hilly districts.

At one place between Liddes and Orsieres we meet a gentleman and a lady in a carriage, with a guide, when they saw us coming they stopped at a wide part of the road, where there was sufficient room to pass, the lady was smoking, she got out in a moment and stood against the Mountain enjoying her smoke, the gentleman keept his seat, we soon met another carriage with three gentlemen in, they got out as soon as they saw us, leaving the driver with the carriage in the road, and they on the side of the mountain, our Coachman laughed at them for being so frightened, away we went, and I tried to make him understand not to drive so fast, but he did not or would not understand at all, but drove away. 

When we got to Bovernier, in the Churchyard is a full size representation of our Saviour on the Cross with blood flowing from the head, side, hands, and feet, I could not ascertain whether it was wood or white marble it looked very well.

We arrived at Martigny at ½ past 2 being only 6 ¼ hours in coming back the 30 miles from the Hospice, the usual time allowed is from 8 to 9 hours, we stopped at Hotel de Clere (which is expensive) had a large bottle of Bass’s beer for which I paid 2 ½ franc’s that is 2/1, staying at Martigny and the Station till 27 past 6, when the train started. There are four Hotels here, the Railway Station is ½ mile from the town, on the right of the line, on an eminence stands La Batiaz a Castle of the Bishops of Lion erected by Peter of Savoy in 1260, dismantled in 1518, on the side of the Mountain at the back of the Hotel de Clere, is a Tower.

We bought some Photo’s and then quietly walked to the Station, where we were much annoyed with a small kind of gnat and thousands of them, the sting from them was sharp and painful, they were very tiresome. Then on for Vevay 50 miles, got here at ¼ past 9 a slow and tiresome ride, by Rail, walked to Hotel Belle Vue by ¼ past 10 after a most beautiful trip with the finest of weathers all happy and pleasant with the thoughts that we were favoured with one of the finest days possible.

In going to Mont St Bernard and one in returning, not a spot of rain, snow, or fog to mar our pleasure and a trip that many thousands of our Country men and women will never go; also should we be spared to be old, our children will sit round the fireside on a winters night, and enjoy our remarks and description of the Monks, Dogs &c. we saw at Mont Saint Bernard Aug 20 1872.

Monday August 19th, 1872

Monday Aug 19th had breakfast at 5 started from Vevay at 9 past 6 by Rail to St Maurice where we had to change carriages. A very ancient town took its name from St Maurice the commandant of the Theban Legion he suffered martyrdom here in 202, near the Chapelle de Verolliaz, 6000 Soldiers of the Theban Legion once suffered martydom on the spot where this Chapelle stands.

The Abbey is the oldest on this side of the Alps; on the side of the mountain opposite the Station is perched the hermitage of Notre-Dame-du-Lex more than 500 feet up, to which is a narrow footpath has been hewn in the Rock.

The women here have very peculiar hats with bands of ribbon round with edging of silver or gold lace, many of them handed down from three or four generations and only worn on fete days, they look very remarkable.

Taking our seats in the train we soon arrived at Martigney 30 miles from Vevay, we went to the Hotel de Clere finest Hotel in Martigny, engaged a carriage with a grey horse and mule, started at ¼ past 10 in the morning for Mont St Bernard. In ¾ of a mile came to Martigny le Bourg it was market day the pigs are like Donkeys very poor with remarkably long ears, the granaries and dwelling houses are built in one, very rude and rough looking, and the street was narrow, the dress of the men is very strange looking.

½ mile we crossed the river Dranse 3 ¾ miles farther is Bovernier a dirty looking place, enormous blocks of rock impede the course of the Dranse here, the road is narrow and the precipices to look down are fearful – 400 and 500 feet deep, nothing to protect the road. Went through a tunnel 200 feet long hewn out of the solid rock made by Napoleon 1st, in 1 ½ miles we came to Sembrancher a very odd looking village, on the hill are the ruins of a castle said to have accommodated Emporor Sigismund and 800 Nobles, at the SW Mont Catogne 6510 feet high.

4 ½ miles and we reached Orsieres a large village, there is a very ancient Tower. The streets are very rough and pebbled, very dirty and heaps of manure in between the houses. A little way on, and the channel of the Dranse is so deep you can scarcely see it, the view between here and Liddes is most picturesque in the background is the snowy pyramid of Mont Velan, and cultivated fields like patchwork, no hedges but wheat, barley, grass, rye, vines etc. on the slopes down to the Dranse, the different colours look very pretty.

5 ¾ miles farther and we reached Liddes, a considerable village, two hotels, middling accommodation, very steep narrow streets, but very dirty the horse and mule was taken out of the carriage and two fresh mules put in, the water is plentiful here, like at Vevay and most of the other towns we have been through large stone troughs twelve to fourteen feet long, and the women mostly wash without soap at these troughs in the street some of which are divided where they swill the clothes.

3 ¾ miles we reach St Pierre Mont Soux (we passed Cheval Blanc and Croix two little places) the Church was built in 1010 with a roman mile stone in the wall of the Churchyard, this is the most dirty village I ever saw the manure heaps are close to the front entrance, and under their windows. In the main street, beyond St Pierre we crossed a bridge over a deep Gorge, near it is a beautiful waterfall, this celebrated part of the Alps by Napoleon 1st was began May 16th 1800 and occupied for days, from St Pierre to the Hospice of St Bernard the part which tried Napoleon and his army most when they crossed the Alps. 

The guns was put in the trunks of trees and dragged up by the Soldiers for which Napoleon allowed them 1200 franc’s for each cannon, the artillery carriages were taken to pieces and packed on Mules and the ammunition, also at the Hospice each Soldier partook of the hospitality of the Brethren. The Forest of St Pierre is very large. 

3 ¾ miles more and we got to Cantine de Proz, a solitary Inn, a shed I should call it: the carriage road terminates here (Mont Blanc, the monarch of European Mountains 15,781 feet high and Mont Rosa 15,217 seen from here with their snowy heads) at the foot of the Mountain and in 20 minutes we had the two mules out of the carriage and saddled. Mrs T mounted one and Mrs M the other, Mr M and myself walked, so off we started with an old Gentlemen on another mule, and a young friend walking crossed the pastures of Plan de Proz in 20 minutes, and ascended the wild Defile de Marengo in 1 ¼ hours we came to the two stone huts.

We crossed the Dranse bridge Nudri when the old gentleman was taken ill, which is frequently the case with travellers, the mountain air brings on a faintness the guides got him off the mule and shook him (like an Englishman would shake a boy he caught stealing his apples) making him walk. Then two held him up while the other ran up to the Hospice brought down 6 men with a chair fixed in a frame put him in and carried him up to the Hospice gave him some Cognac, coffee &c. put him to bed and in the morning he was much better.

In 1 ¼ hours from the bridge Nudri we arrived at the Hospice of Great Mont St Bernard 8996 feet high (it is not a single mountain but a group) at ¼ past 9 at night it took us 11 hours, got the Ladies off the mules Mrs M was feeling very gidy and sick, we went into the large room where there was from 30 to 35 visitors mostly ladies, Mr M and Mrs T went to their bedroom, Mrs M had some warm coffee and got quite right; my head ached and I went to bed.

Mr and Mrs Morgan, Mrs T and the friend of the old Gentleman’s went down to the room and had what they liked to eat and drink, there was two pianos one was played by a young lady, and a young gentleman singing all in French, plenty of wine on the table, with vases of flowers on the mantle piece, and a large glass, a very large fire place, in the bedrooms were two beautiful beds clean and nice, eiderdown quilts, we had a good nights rest.

The bell of the Chapel began to toll for prayers at 4 o’clock in the morning, I got out of bed and saw the Sun rise and of all the sights I ever saw that surpassed them all, also the sight was strange to see the snow in the middle of August.

Mr M and myself went downstairs, saw the Dogs, walked round the Lake, that contain lots of fish especially trout, about 20 minutes walk and we were on the Italian Frontier, the mountains were blue with forget-me-nots so bright, more than 9000 feet above the sea, went back to the Hospice for the ladies, we all had a first rate breakfast, the kindness and attention of the Monks, and the man that waits at table are kind in the extreme.

Then all four of us started to walk to the flowers round the Lake on to the Italian Mountains, and picked some of the beautiful forget-me-nots, and lots of wild flowers, the scenery here is most wild and magnificent, in amongst such mountains and only a mule track, it is impossible to describe it or convey to the mind of any one the real grandeur or feeling of wonder as when seen. 

We then turned back to see the Chapel, which was gorgous and the dresses of the Priests that were officiating were very handsome, the Library is very good., the ground floor is used as stables, the next story kitchen and sleeping apartments for the poor travellers, with places for the dogs, next story for the Monks and gentlemen travellers, next story for the lady visitors, the house or building opposite called Hotel de St Louis they store the fuel and places for poor travellers, which always have a good breakfast or a meal before they leave to go on their journey.  

The Brethren are kind to all that pass that way, (which I fear never will be my lot again) also the Morgue or dead house, there were four bodies that were found on the mountains dead, in the house, and they keep without decomposition or change in the features for 12 months, there is also a stable for visitors mules, there are four buildings in all.

The dogs are noble animals and when sent out or taken out in search for travellers, they have a little keg of cognac tied round the neck and a blanket tied or strapped on their back, when if they find a traveller that is lost and alive, they make them have the Cognac and will unfasten the strap round the blanket for them to use, and then set up a howl for the Monk and his attendants to come, they are most sagacious animals.

The Monks are of the Augustine Order and consists of from 10 to 15 Monks, they go up there between the age of 18 to 20 and are old men at 34 to 35 and are obliged to go down to Martigny or some other place that is warmer, quite old men all honour to their self denial and devotion. 

There are 7 men as attendants and 11 dogs, their keen sense of smell enables them to track and discover travellers in peril from heavy falls of snow, from 16 to 20,000 travellers are accommodated at the Hospice annually. There is no charge made, you can give what you like, and stay as long as you like, if you wish to give anything you must go to the Chapel and put in the box, but much to the shame of the visitors, many go and partake of the hospitality and never give anything, the French especially. 

There are 20 horses daily employed in bringing fuel and provisions from Aosta 12 miles, during the months of July, August, and September, which are the only months they can travel this pass, the whole number of persons about the Hospice, Priests, Monks, and men are about 40.

Any traveller ought not to leave this place without giving as much or more than they would pay at their hotel, and feel a compassion for this devoted fraternity. In my opinion they committ a slow suicide. It is 30 miles from Martigny to the Hospice. I forgot to name when we were about a mile from the Hospice that Mrs M nearly fell from her mule and had she done so it was only 500 feet to the bottom of the precipiece, and a strong current of water, and nearly 9 oclock at night.

Sunday August 18th, 1872

Sunday Aug 18th spent here till 4 Oclock went about 2 miles to Mr Recordon’s, a very nice quiet man, his wife a native of Frampton on Severn and Cousin to Mr Morgan, was very kind both of them we had Tea and staid till 9 when we returned to our Hotel.

Saturday August 17th, 1872

Saturday Aug 17th went to look over the town Vevay, the Market is a large open space, held on Thursdays and Saturdays, the principle day is Saturday the people are here with cattle and goods, fruits &c. by four in the morning, by 9 the men and women are sweeping it clear, the people are very early in getting up and going to bed.  

The Quay which is very pleasant, is shaded with trees, three spacious Hotels with beautiful gardens 7 to 8 francs a day expense, there are 7 or 8 other Hotels very good from 4 to 6 franc’s, English Church service held at St Clair Church, the Church of St Martin erected in 1498 on an eminence amongst the vineyards, Ludlow and Broughton were buried in this church, Broughton read the sentence to King Charles 1st, On the restoration of Charles 2nd they went to Vevay as  refugees, the English demanded them but the Swiss would not give them up. 

The Bellerive School known to many English and American families is noted, the shops are very good, streets narrow, the veal large but fat and good, beef middling, mutton not at all good, fruits and flowers very nice, there are three or four Steamers on the Lake, about 3 ½ miles is the beautiful village of Clarens, there are many Hotels around the Lake from 4 to 8 franc’s a day, that is for breakfast Table d’hote, bed and attendance.

The grapes are ripe about the middle of September when you can go into the Vineyards and pick them for one penny per lb; as many as you like, black or white, to the east of Vevay is a villa erected in 1857 by the Princess Liegnitz widow of Frederick William 3rd of Prussia by a morganatic marriage; most of the houses here have double cased windows the winter is so very severe, and summer so hot. We returned to our Hotel for the night.

Friday August 16th, 1872

On Friday Aug 16 went onboard steamer for a sail to Villeneuve walked from here to Castle Chillon, it is built in the Lake 65 feet from the shore connected by a bridge. Byron has written about the Castle, saw the ring in one of the eight pillars in the Dungeons where Bonnivard was chained a prisoner for many years by the Duke of Savoy his uncle, and many illustrious captives have been chained in this castle, and murdered. Byron’s name is on the pillar, saw the well in a dark dungeon where some of the condemned had to walk in the dark three steps then fell into the well 50 feet deep. 

Also we saw the beam and a portion of the wheel blackened with age that many an early reformer suffered torture and death; the reception room of the Duke of Savoy is noble and old, also the bedroom, since 1798 has been used as a Military Arsenal, there were many cannons and cannon balls in the different rooms. A remarkable pretty girl about 18 showed us over the castle, her dress hair and figure was all good and so neat.

Over the entrance was inscribed in 1643 by Bernese, “Gott der Herr segne den Ein und Ausgang (May God bless all who come in or go out). Between Chillon and Villeneuve on the slope of the hill is Byron’s Hotel, where he staid, the Island opposite in the Lake 30 paces long and 20 wide, a wall was built round it by a Lady a century ago to protect it, there are three elm trees growing on it now; Byron’s words may be used now:

And there was a little Isle

Which in my very face did smile

The only one in view.

Took Steamer at Montreux and back to Vevay the scenery from the lake is extraordinary; the vineyards loaded with fruit, and the lofty mountains inhabited only by a few in the summer months, their houses which are built mostly of wood look very pretty. Returned to our Hotel had tea &c. a quiet walk in the garden, a little chat with some Cognac and a smoke for me, some of our friends preferring water and reading; everyone to their liking. Mrs T keeping in spirits and health very good so much so that many thought she was my daughter, I have no doubt if we go again and are favoured with such nice weather she may be taken for a grand-daughter, for when she is dressed it is rather a stylish affair.

Thursday August 15th, 1872

The butterflies here are large and most beautiful in colours. Rose early had eggs, coffee, rolls, butter and very nice honey. Our Hotel is on the side of the hill 400 feet above the Lakes, very quiet, two beds in each room very narrow and not at all the place for a honey moon to be spent, only room for one in a bed. Very clean but plain, with a balcony the width of both bed rooms, (the flooring boards were 38 inches wide) commanding a most extensive view of the Savoy Mountains, the town of Vevay, population 7887, a great portion of the Lake of Geneva, Castle Chillon, and most extensive vineyards, 32 Villages, Dent du Midi 10,350 feet above the level of the sea, Mount Velan 12,352 feet, top of which is always covered with snow; the Sugar Loaf with many others.

We went by rail to Evionnaz 20 miles, passing the river Rhone, Mount Velan can be seen from here very plain; in the year 563 the town that stood on this spot was destroyed with a mud stream from Dent du Midi, near the village La Barma ½ mile from the station is the beautiful fall of the Sallenche known as the Pissevache it is a large body of water rushing out of the mountain, and looks like thousands of serpents springing out. The day was very fine and the sight magnificent, I plan to go up to it. There is a pension close by where we bought our Alpines and several articles made from the stones from the mountain., also wooden knives and forks carved, for which they are noted; the daughter knew a little English so we had an hours amusement, she promised to have one ear bored to hang an English threepenny piece in.

We went 1 ¼ mile along the road (that was made by Napoleon 1st) to see The Gorge du Trient, two rocks rent asunder, with a stream of water in places 40 feet deep, which comes from Mont de Midi and flows into the Rhone which is one of the great suppliers to the Lake of Geneva. The entrance is very imposing and wonderful the rocks 420 high, the sunshine never penetrates into the gully, you can go between the two rocks for ½ mile on a wooden gallery, although the Gorge is nine miles long it is a wonderful sight, and must be seen to form any idea. On the opposite side of the road is Hotel des Gorges du Trient a large building, you may have mules and Guides here for Chamouny. 

The people are busy making their third crop of hay, and if they are good Farmers can get four good crops each year, they take it into wooden houses, and the corn they house which they are busy at now. 

We returned to our hotel after spending a very pleasant day, and seeing such sights we may never again see weather fine, health good, and company pleasant, much amused with the people and the money, had dinner at 5 walked about the hill after, at 10 went to bed.

Wednesday August 14th, 1872

Wednesday August 14th at three in the morning we started again, passing Forests of Oak trees for 30 miles, we arrived at Pontparlier this is the boundary of the French Territory this way, when all except the English had to go through the unpleasant form of having their passports and luggage examined again, some Americans we got in company with thought it strange that such privileges should be given to the English only. 

Then commenced Switzerland the Pine Forests are indescribable the mountains covered to the top with pines, one of the Mountains called Creux du Vent is 4800 feet high, the Railroad is made for many miles on the sides of the Mountains. The Valleys below look to have nice pasture with a little Village and a Church about every ¼ of a mile about the size of Cainscross only built in a different style they don’t seem to form streets but build here and there. It is most picturesque the scenery is far superior to any we saw in France.

We got to Neuchatell (population 13,321) at 12 saw the Lake – 27 miles long 6 miles wide 600 feet in the deepest part and about 160 miles square. The town or city is very pretty built on the side of the mountain overlooking the Lake, there are three fine Hotels, it is in the form of an amphitheatre, the Quay is ½ mile long. 

The Castle on an eminence is the seat of the Government of the Canton No. 21. The College is a large building, there is a bronze statue to David de Perry, he gave to the City 4 ½ Millions of franc’s, there are several other buildings of note but our stay was not long enough to see.

The people looked clean but not industrious, the men mending the road with pebbles did sit down every time they put three in, then up for more, and not at all fast, if it was in a colder country I think they would be likely to take a chill in moving so slow, (it brings to my mind the recollections of a society that was formed in Stroud in which each member agrees never to take a days work out of any body’s hands that will do it. 

The women are more industrious, we saw many of them reaping, mowing and doing as we thought men’s work, and as they walk along the roads with a load at their backs they are knitting all the time. 

We left here about ¼ to 2 O’clock for Lusanne passing lovely scenery and Towns arrived at ¼ to 3 going on by train for Vevay 10 miles arriving here at ½ past 3 O’clock. Madame Recordon meet us, engaged a carriage and had some grapes and rolls to eat as we drove to the Hotel de Pension, Belle Vue, Chardonne sur Vevay at ½ past 4 after travelling 56 hours we did feel tired, had some tea coffee &c. and soon went to bed.

Tuesday August 13th, 1872

We went on board the Steamer at Newhaven amusing ourselves with a Sailor we called Grandfather, set sail for Dieppe 75 miles across the channel at 1 in the morning Tuesday Aug 13th.

Had a most beautiful night saw the Sun rise the sea very calm, (but the basons below very much used) the Cabins were so full of passengers they said it was most un-pleasant, Mr M and myself staid on deck all night like men on duty, Mrs T and Mrs M left the cabin about 5 in the morning to join us, [after amusing themselves with the basons for what purpose you know] they almost made me think it was not my Wife and her sister for Mrs M looked like a piece of white flannel with the colour washed out and Mrs T as though she had lost something she did not want to find.

We arrived at Dieppe at 7 in the morning. On the Quay was the representation of our Saviour nailed to the Cross full size, at the foot of the Cross was the Virgin Mary with a Child in her arms, it was most beautifully made, Dieppe is a very old and dirty looking place with three Churches, on leaving the Vessel we had to pass a wooden house where there were some Officers to examine the passports (English only free from that).

On farther a place to have the luggage or baggage examined they were very good to us and we soon got clear of that, as soon as we were in the street the scouts came in droves to carry the luggage.

We got to the Station full a ¼ of a mile from the Vessel, had a wash paid 4d each, had a cup of Coffee with roll and butter but had not time to finish it (so took eatables in our hands). Had to start by train at 8 for Paris 155 miles passing and in sight of several Towns and Cities, especially Rouen the Cathederal.  We could see very plain and looked a very noble building, with many large buildings about the City it looked a very large place, we staid at this Station 20 minutes, and staid at three others between this and Paris to have refreshments 

it was a most pleasant ride for Miss A was such nice company the time passed so fast that I took the morning for night much to the amusement of the company.

We arrived at Paris at one midday took a cab 6/- drove through the City ¾ hours ride to the West Station, Miss A left us when we took the cab as she was going to Nancy on the morrow. We had some coffee &c. and at 3 started for Lausanne 360 miles we arrived at Dijon at 12 midnight feeling rather tired could not make them understand so had some rolls and gave the English money. We had to stay here for three hours. 

Monday 12th August, 1872

Mr and Mrs Morgan with S Thornton and Wife agreed to go for a Tour, myself and wife started on Monday Aug 12th 1872 from Stroud Station 23 past 10 in the morning, arrived at Paddington at ½ past 2 O’clock 101½ miles, took a cab 3/- to London Bridge Station, met Mr and Mrs M, left the ladies at the waiting room, Mr M and I went to Cook & Sons Fleet Street took 4 tickets for £5..8..0 each for Switzerland and Coupons for 5 days each, 7/6 per day each, for breakfast dinner bed and attendance, all very clean and nice.

Back to Station had some refreshments went and saw Revd Spurgeon’s Chapel it will hold 6000 persons so well the seats are arranged that every person can see the preacher. Back to Station, started at 8 for Newhaven 73 miles arrived at ½ past 10 a very quick and pleasant ride, (a Miss Alder of London got into the same carriage and made herself most agreeable and useful to us).