Sunday August 25th, 1872

Sunday Aug 25th this being their grand musical festival today, only once in 7 years there were 123 brass bands of music, consisting of from 40 to 60 musicians in each band, there was an Orchestra erected in a large open green, the Plain-Palais a disused cemetery, and every band a number so that they went in turns to play before the Committee, and in the afternoon was awarded the prizes, the scene althrough the City was impossible to describe every window had a flag, hundreds of streamers across the streets, music everywhere, (I think there was 10 flags for every one on the day of Thanksgiving in London. Feby 27th 1872 for the recovery of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.) 

The cannons began firing at 5 in the morning, and the whole City from 9 in the morning untill 12 at night was more like a fairy land or a dream, the fireworks at night began at 8 lasted till 11, then one of the bands struck up and played God save the Queen of England in the gardens opposite our hotel, and the whole mass of people joined in, there were many English visitors here, and we all felt very much pleased to hear it so many miles away, from old England the land of my birth. I never heard such a chorus with so many voices so heartily joined together without any preperation, it was grand. 

Geneva has a population of 47,581 (20,695 Roman Catholic’s) is the richest town and smallest Canton (except Zug) in Switzerland, it is 15 miles long and as many wide, the entire Canton has a population of 94,116 of whom 30,000 are aliens. The town is situated at the south extremity of the Lake, at the point where the blue waters of the Rhone emerge with the swiftness of an arrow. 

The Rhone divides the town into two parts; on the right is the smallest, chiefly inhabited by the industrious class, on the north side are squares of handsome houses, many ten stories high, the scene from the Lake presents a very imposing appearance the banks of the Rhone being flanked with broad quays and fine substantial buildings, the streets are mostly narrow, steep, and irregular, the two halves of the City are connected by means of six bridges, the highest of these and the most handsome is Pont du Mont Blanc, completed in 1862, leads from the Railway Station through a broad street Rue du Mont Blanc over the bridge passing our Hotel de Metropole and on to the end of the Jardin Anglais.

The English Church is situated in Rue de Mont Blanc, and when the Clergyman the Rev Dowling (that has officiated here for 14 years) got to the Church this morning, the gates, doors, and all were locked against him, by order of the Committee, the Rev Gentleman with his congregation went to our Hotel, and there held a service, in the general sitting room. The Bishop of London has since settled the affair and the Rev Mr Dowling uses the Church again.

Pont des Bergues the next bridge is joined to Rousseau’s island, united to the bridge by a suspension bridge in the centre of the island is a bronze statue of Rousseau (he was born at Grand rue 40 in 1712 and died in 1778 at Paris) and a little café surrounded with trees and seats, it is a very pleasant place, I much enjoyed a cigar and a bottle of wine there, you have a fine view of the Lake, you have one of the finest views of Mont Blanc group (the highest of which is 15,781 feet high and always covered with snow) from the Quai du Mont Blanc, the corner house is the Hotel de Russia, a noble Hotel, expensive and supported by the Imperial family of Russia.

Trees are planted along the quay as far as Jete or pier, with seats, you have a fine view of the City, also of the Alps. In the beautiful gardens (Jardin Anglais) opposite our Hotel is a bronze group of Helvetia and Geneva, by Dorer, on a pedestal, commemorating the Union of Geneva with the confederation in 1814, also a beautiful fountain.

On an eminence to the south-east at some distance is the new Russian Church, with its 5 Glittering gilded domes, erected by contributions from the Imperial and other Russian families, it is a most imposing sight, we went inside, and it won’t hold more than 50 persons, but most gorgous, the precious stones, gold and silver candlesticks, the wood all polished Cedar, you want a day to inspect it, when the sun shines in at the windows you can scarcely look at any of it, we all said it was the most exquisite place we ever saw, it must have cost many thousands of pounds, the inside alone.

We went inside the Hotel de Ville (where the Alabama question was settled for us English to pay to America three millions and nearly a quarter pounds sterling for damage done by the Alabama, Florida, and Shenandoah three ships that left our ports) it is a massive building, in the interior are inclined planes instead of stairs.

The Cathedral completed in 1024 by the Emperor Conrad the second, to west of thebuilding is the house that Calvin occupied from 1536 to 1564 (he was born 1509 at Noyon in Picardy,) untill his death; he was interred in the Cemetary of Plain-Palais now a disused cemetery, but the spot cannot be recognised as the great reformer expressly forbade that any monument should be erected over his remains.

The Arsenal opposite Hotel de Ville contains ancient and modern armour also the ladder used by the Savoyards in their unsuccessful enterprise to obtain possession of Geneva Dec 11th 1602, near is the Botanic Gardens established in 1816, The Anthenee was erected by the wife of the philhellenist Eynard and presented to the Society des Beaux-Arts, it contains lecture rooms, a library of works on the history of art.

The Theatre erected in 1782 is generally closed during the summer. Mrs T and I went in, 1 franc each to hear the singing for prizes, it was very full. We also went to the Musee Rath (Mr and Mrs Morgan with us now) founded by the Russian General Rath a native of Geneva, and presented to the City by his sisters, the sculpture and paintings were very good, many by Rubens and other noted painters.

We got back to our Hotel, had a wash, at 5 went to the Table de Hote to dinner; when we were all seated there was more than 250 ladies and gentlemen from all nations, we had nine courses consisting of soup, fowl, fish, flesh &c. with fruit after, you had what wine you liked, but that was paid for extra, at 7 we left the room, had a rest, at ½ past 7 went out again, walked about the City that was illuminated with gas and millions of Chinese lanthorns, from one end of the City to the other. Also all the steamers and boats on the Lake was light up, bands of music in every street, the City at night was one moving mass, and the houses many of them ten stories high, with flags flying and light up with gas or lamps, your mind was carried away, you could hardly fancy it real.

The cannons began firing at 7 and the fireworks let off on Rousseau’s island, the water gave it such a nice effect, altho so many thousands of people, you could pass through with very little trouble (not like we found it in London going down Ludgate Hill at ½ past 9 at night Feb 27th 1872 when some of our company nearly fainted from the crush and many persons were much injured at the same time). 

Mr M left us at about 10 and went to the Hotel tired, Mrs M and Mrs T and myself started off to see what we could, thinking it very possible we may never have the chance again. 

We went to café had some coffee and cognac, (very good) and roll with nice butter, rested, then off to our Hotel about ½ past 11 at night.